Linn Ekos Se Serial Number
Hello, please help as soon as you can. I've bought a pair of brand new Wharfedale Diamond 10.7 speakers and today it the 10th day in which I could ask for a replacement and I think one of them is a bit 'broken' and would greatly appreciate if anyone would have an idea if it's really a broken speaker or maybe something else (what else).
I started a thread on the LP12 Section of the Linn Forum in response to a growing number of requests from owners, who. In 1993 at serial No 90582 the Cirkus sub-chassis was introduced and this was even stronger than. Figure 56 – With smaller Linn headshells; Akito and Ekos 1, 2, SE initial tag offsetting (N.B.
The issue is that at a certain frequency (some piano notes), I hear a buzz in only one of them. I've noticed a slight buzz yesterday, but thought it was just the video I was watching, but today it's even worse. I've made a recording of this problem.
Check out this 12 second WAV file, in the first 6 seconds, I record the right (good) speaker and in second 6-12 - the left (bad) one. You can clearly hear the buzz (BTW, don't mind the noise in the background these are fans from my PC running). Here's the file: (try to right-click and 'Save as' otherwise it will buffer too long, it's just a 2MB file, though). Note - this does NOT come from the microphone, I can hear it in this one speaker. Also, when I've played some lower notes, it seems that this happens in the mid-range driver. Once the low range picks up the lower notes, there's no buzz. Is the speaker broken?
What else could cause this? Some more additional info which might be helpful: - I've touched the protective grill of the mid-range cone = no help - The cabinet stands evenly, slightly moving it while playing this note = no help - A couple of days ago, I've noticed a 'popping' sound in this speaker. It was NOT too loud and certainly did not sound like anything I would consider an issue, but now that I think of it - it's possible that the issue started to occur ever since. However, I'm not sure about it as these are just those specific frequencies of a piano that cause it. Normally, I don't help any other distortion. - I've changed the channels, hooking up the right speaker to the left channel (and vice-versa) on the amp = no help - Tested in Pure Direct stereo.
---------EDIT-------- Oh and one more thing - it may not be as bad as it sounds in the file, I might have placed the microphone (cheap microphone, that is) differently, but still - this buzzing is there at these frequencies, and it's loud enough to annoy and the reason why I've noticed it especially today was when I wanted to watch a Warner Brothers movie and as you know, the WB jingle playing when the logo shows is played on a piano and that's when this buzzing was so bad that I realized that it can't be some issue with the recording (the movie is on Blu-ray). First, while music is playing, press the frame of each driver to see if that specific driver is the source of the buzz. Check the tightness of the driver mounting screws. If loose, snug them up. Notice I said SNUG, not tight.
These are screws in delicate drivers not the head bolts on an engine. Think firm and snug, but not overly tight.
Next, make sure it is not the speaker terminals that are buzzing or vibrating. Next, make sure it is not something in the room that is vibrating.
If you are using a turntable as the source. Make sure room vibrations are not causing a resonance in the turntable. Things on shelves. Things on or near the speakers.
Make sure it is not a problem in the content. That is, a bad recording. You can have a bad recording on BluRay. A BluRay disc can no be better than the content put on it. Since this is only happening in one speakers, it is possible that you simply have a bad speakers. Communicate with Wharfedale and the Dealer you bought the speaker from, if for no other reason than to start a documentation trail that the problem exists.
Likely if the speakers are very very new, the dealer will just exchange that one for another one. I've connected the left one to the right channel at the amp and vice-versa - same story so it's not an issue with the channel or with the amp. The only thing remains would be the cable, but I'm using (also new) Bridge Elite 2.5mm^2 cable for all speakers, same banana plugs for every speaker, but then - would it even be possible that if the cable would be an issue that it would only affect certain frequencies? As for the replacement, the problem is this - theoretically, in the country I live, you can get a replacement of anything that you buy via the internet (as I did) within 10 days if it doesn't carry any signs of usage and is not damaged in any way. Now, I'm pretty sure there are no signs of usage, but: - everything's connected so all the spikes are 'used' which means all the bags they (and every other accessory) came in are open, - asking for a replacement would mean sending both speakers back as I bought them as a pair and if anything I'd prefer so send only one as it's already heavy enough. I will of course try to ask for a replacement of just one speaker, but there's a good chance they'll try to repair it first. I'm so ****** right now, I mean - what are the odds that when I buy something once in.
Many years, out of 4 speakers I bought (pair of 10.7 and pair of 10.2) - one is faulty 25% of screw-up. Sad --------EDIT-------- Oh, Steve's post just appeared, I will reply to it in a moment. OK, first off, thanks Steve for showing up, I appreciate it While music is playing, I can't hear this.
In fact, it's hard to find a 'good' frequency that will trigger this. I've figured that piano is the best source.
The first time I've heard it very slightly when watching some guy speaking on YouTube, but I was sure it's just the bad quality of the video. Today, the Warner Brothers jingle on Blu-Ray made it clear and the source I'm using to reproduce this right now is a virtual piano. This one: That said, if you open this virtual piano, you'll be able to play it using your keyboard. The worst case of buzz is caused by the notes that you can trigger with the 'f', 'g' and 'h' keys. That is - the notes E, F and G on the 4th octave (same happens with E#. To make sure which driver it is, I've covered the tweeter with my hand and then the mid-range and it's definitely the mid-range. With the mid-range covered, I almost can't hear the buzz, with the tweeter covered, I hear it clearly.
Note - by covered, I mean NOT touched, just put my hand in front of it. I've tightened the 4 screws around the mid-range driver to no avail.
I mean, I think they're tight enough now, I don't really have a point of reference, but it feels like I've reached the point where further tightening would not be a good idea anymore. There's no way it's an ambient buzz.
I can put my ear right next to the driver and can clearly hear the buzz coming from it. Also - I can NOT hear it from the right speaker, it's just this one and I'm using the same source (the virtual keyboard). Also, I've connected the right speaker to the left channel in the amp and vice-versa and it's still buzzing in the left speaker which I think excludes the possibility that the source of the sound has a buzz in the left channel otherwise the right speaker would buzz.
I will try to exchange this one speaker. They are brand new, you wouldn't even be able to tell if someone had it if you would get them. I hope they will agree for a one-speaker exchange, but the issue with exchanging it is - if I tell them it's faulty, they will want to repair it (most likely), if I do not tell them anything, they would want both speakers back (and give me a refund). It depends on the definition of abuse. My room is fairy small and I never listen to music so loud that it would appear like it's the limit of what the speaker can do, but of course I turn up the volume enough so that when a lightning strikes in a movie, it would sound like a real lightning. Just for reference, I'm watching movies at a volume level of -24.0dB on the Pioneer VSX-1122-K amp.
The calibration test sound was louder than this and the highest volume level I've ever had was -18dB, but the only reason for that was because the source was very quiet so at this rate it still sounded more quiet than playing a PlayStation game which I normally do at -33dB. If that would damage the speaker then it would be very weird. Remember the YouTube videos we've laughed? I assume these people had their volume levels much more higher based on their 'jumping cones' and I think they still didn't damage the speaker. As for contacting the dealer. There are actually 3 'institutions' on the way to Wharfedale: 1. The online store in which I bought the speakers.
The official Polish Wharfedale distributor who imports them country-wide. Wharfedale themselves. You're saying they could even send me a replacement driver? I've never disassembled a speaker before! Anyway, thanks again, I will contact.
Someone ASAP. OK, I've contacted both the store that sold me these speakers and the official Polish dealer (who's servicing them). Before I contacted them, I ran two more tests.
The ultimate tests - I've connected my Wharfs 10.2 as fronts and there's no distortion neither on the piano I've mentioned earlier, nor the Blu-ray. And the second ultimate test - I've swapped the cables between the 10.7 fronts and the issue persisted. There's no other option I could think of other than a technical problem so unfortunately I'm gonna have to go through all the process of sending it and hoping for a replacement Thanks for your help. I listened to your latest Audio File and it sounds to me like the buzz come on the trailing edge of the tone. And yes I definitely heard it. I played it in AUDACITY, which is something of a Common License Audio Editing/Recording program. This allows me to isolate a single note, plus it gives me a graph of the waveform.
There seems to be a very tinny metallic buzz on the last two notes. Given this is clearly isolated to one speaker, and more so, isolated to one driver, it is clearly a faulty driver. How long have you had the speakers? I listened to your latest Audio File and it sounds to me like the buzz come on the trailing edge of the tone.
And yes I definitely heard it. I played it in AUDACITY, which is something of a Common License Audio Editing/Recording program. This allows me to isolate a single note, plus it gives me a graph of the waveform. There seems to be a very tinny metallic buzz on the last two notes. Given this is clearly isolated to one speaker, and more so, isolated to one driver, it is clearly a faulty driver. How long have you had the speakers? Click to expand.I've used a software called GoldWave to record this and I could also see the differences.
Just look at the spectogram in the bottom-right corner: There's something else there along with the sound on the right side. Anyway, I've got these speakers exactly 10 days. Today is day #10. I've listened to them like 5-6 hours a day. Music, TV, games, movies and unfortunately, it's not easy to hear this if you hear a full spectrum of sound as it seems to happen only at certain frequencies. As I've said, the first time I've heard something 'wrong' was 2 days ago when listening to some TED talk on YouTube and at one time, the guy spoke in a tone that made some buzz, but then - it's YouTube and I didn't even give much through to it thinking it's the source, but when I've heard a piano yesterday - it was clear and a piano seems to be able to hit the broken frequencies.
BTW, I've looked up what are the frequencies of different piano keys: The virtual keyboard has only 5 octaves and it seems to start at the second octave which means the 4th that I'm referring to is the 5th in reality. Guess what frequencies are the tones I play? 700 Hz - 900 Hz. And what's the crossover frequency of my mid-range driver? The Diamond 10.7 is a 3.5-way system. Both Low-Bass and Mid-Bass play are frequencies below 150hz. Then above 150hz, the Mid-Bass carries on up to 850hz, where the Dome Midrange speaker takes over.
The Tweeter kicks in at about 4.5khz. Low-Bass = 30hz to 150hz Mid-Bass = 30hz to 850hz Midrange = 850hz to 4.5khz Tweeter = 4.5khz to 24khz Why the problem would occur in the Crossover Range of the Mid-Bass to Midrange, I can't say. The same Mid-Bass on the Diamond 10.6 is capable of carrying on accurately up to 2.5khz, so I would expect it to be distorted. I'm sure they are using the Midrange well within its working range, so normally I wouldn't expect a problem there. It is going to be a hassle shipping your speakers back to the dealer, but one hopes, in the end, you get two good working speakers.
That was probably an old post of mine, but if the forums has its own test tone, I would certainly like a link to that. Here is an old thread of mine - The tones listed are simply tone I tracked down on the Internet, there are probably hundreds more. Since these tones are continous, some lasting up to a minute, you don't want the volume too loud.
Also note that the Tone on the extreme will not sound as loud as the tones in the middle, which means at the extremes there is a tendency to want to turn it up - RESIST THAT DESIRE. Fortunately in your case, the necessary tones are likely to be very much in the middle and that won't be a problem. If you do not have a physical volume control that lets you determine volume by the position of the Dial, then put a CD in, set the volume to a casual listening level, and leave it there. Then put the Test Tone CD in and run the test tones.
Sustained use of continuous tones like this can cause heat to build up in the speakers. So, don't sustain them indefinitely. That's generally not a problem as there is a slight pause between tones, but use some common sense.
There are generally two types or ranges of tones 1/3rd Octive, and this work well for most uses - 20hz 25hz 31.5hz 40hz 50hz 63hz 80hz 100hz in 31 steps up to 20khz The other is 1/6th Octave which is twice as many tones more closely spaced - 20hz 25hz 30hz 35hz 40hz 45hz 50hz 55hz 60hz 65hz. 100hz 120hz 130hz 140hz. 400hz 500hz 600hz. 1000hz 1200hz 1400hz 1600hz 1800hz etc. Steve/bluewizard Steve/bluewizard.
The Diamond 10.7 is a 3.5-way system. Crane Runway Beam Design Software. Both Low-Bass and Mid-Bass play are frequencies below 150hz.
Then above 150hz, the Mid-Bass carries on up to 850hz, where the Dome Midrange speaker takes over. The Tweeter kicks in at about 4.5khz. Low-Bass = 30hz to 150hz Mid-Bass = 30hz to 850hz Midrange = 850hz to 4.5khz Tweeter = 4. Download Video Song Dildarian By Amrinder Gill more. 5khz to 24khz Why the problem would occur in the Crossover Range of the Mid-Bass to Midrange, I can't say. The same Mid-Bass on the Diamond 10.6 is capable of carrying on accurately up to 2.5khz, so I would expect it to be distorted. I'm sure they are using the Midrange well within its working range, so normally I wouldn't expect a problem there. Click to expand.I was actually thinking if it may be a problem not with the lower range of the midrange driver, but the upper range of the bass driver, but then again - covering the mid-range with my hand makes the buzz (and the main tone) less audible.
I can't cover the 6' bass driver with my hand but I think if it would be the source then covering the mid-range would make the main tone quiet, but the buzz would still be exposed. In fact, playing just 2-3 notes lower on the virtual keyboard makes a clear non-distorted sound and these are frequencies on which the bass driver operates.
However, playing even higher notes still makes a buzz. The Warner Brothers intro I was referring to starts like. 2 octaves higher (if I'm correct) and it produces the most buzz of all and these are sounds that don't affect the bass driver at all, but still - too low for the tweeter to kick in. And again - covering the tweeter with my hand reveals the buzz even more so I'm certain it comes from the mid-range. The only other possibility would be that the crossover electronics themselves are the source of this issue, but then - wouldn't it affect both drivers that are 'on the edge' if the problem was a bad signal coming in instead of having the buzz come out just from one particular driver? Click to expand.It's all a hassle.
Now it turns out that all the time I spent to properly place the speakers in the right spots was a waste of time, and to be honest, the worst hassle will be just carrying them over to the courier. I barely made it for the first time, felt it in my bones for 3 days and was glad it's over and now I have 2 more such events in front of me.And why do they insist on getting both speakers back on one pallet is beyond me. They prefer to pay for a larger and heavier shipment just because they sell them in pairs? It's not like it's a matching set, these are stand-alone units, not even the serial numbers match (they do in my DIA 10.2s, but the 10.7s are 4 numbers apart anyway [ correction - actually they're 6 numbers apart!]).
It won't be a financial hassle, though - the dealer will call the courier who will pick it up for free and the replacement will ship for free as well it's just. A general hassle of having to wait for it and then once again hope to get both good working units. This time I'm going to find any instrument in any music software I can to play every single note to test them. Click to expand.Cell phones - don't have any so that's not possible. Distance from amp? The affected one was a good 40cm away (that's about 16 inch) and the not affected one more like.
2+ meters away. So you're saying that the distance to the amp can affect the sound or are you suggesting that maybe the amp is buzzing which I'm sure it's not. What kind of interference are you referring to exactly? I stood in front of them between the speaker and the amp and it didn't help. Also - having different speakers in the same place at roughly the same distance didn't have any effect. The volume level doesn't have to be hight to hear it either. Click to expand.The dealer won't repair anything, they already agreed to replace both speakers ('because we sell them in pairs') with new ones.
Anyway, thanks for your all your help so far, if something weird or funny happens, I'll keep you posted, but right now the only thing that could go wrong and that I'm afraid of is that some deaf idiot at the dealer will listen to a 3 minute song and decide that there's no problem with them which I would probably agree as it's incredibly difficult to hear this out from any song unless it's played on a piano or just hits the right frequencies. I will provide them with a very detailed instructions on when to hear it, though.
Right now, I've hooked up my old Philips speakers (from an old mini hi-fi system) to the front channels and although one can discuss the quality of these speakers (with good reasons ) I've played every single note on the virtual piano and there's absolutely no such distortion, no buzz, clear sound (as 'clear' as the speakers go, of course). The one on the left is pretty much at the same distance to the amp. But just to be absolutely sure that it's not a distortion caused by the distance, I've put it on a table literally 1 inch next to the amp and played the sounds at the exact same frequencies to no avail - the sounds are clear, no distortion, no buzz, nothing. Also, during the testing of the Wharfedale, I've also played the affected notes while tilting the speaker to the left, right, front and back and it made absolutely no difference, in fact I could clearly follow the source of the distortion which was - the mid-range driver. That said, the returning process is already set into motion, I really hope I get some good units in return and that the people in the store will be able to hear it. And that I survive carrying them on the pallet. I realize this is an old discussion I have a very similar issue with an older loudspeaker (ProAc Response 3).
They have been re-foamed and have been kept in great shape but on piano transients there is a hazing, blurring of transients on particular notes on the left speaker. I have noticed similar problems with harp, etc. Before the note plays there is a veiled buzz type of sound but just on these specific notes/instruments. Other than this these speakers sound fantastic but I can't bear to listen to piano recordings.
I can't yet tell if it's an issue with the tweeter or one of the mid range drivers. I have a spare tweeter and I'm hoping it's that but I'm thinking it's a driver or crossover issue. I'd appreciate you letting me know what you found here. I realize this is an old discussion I have a very similar issue with an older loudspeaker (ProAc Response 3). They have been re-foamed and have been kept in great shape but on piano transients there is a hazing, blurring of transients on particular notes on the left speaker. I have noticed similar problems with harp, etc. Before the note plays there is a veiled buzz type of sound but just on these specific notes/instruments.
Other than this these speakers sound fantastic but I can't bear to listen to piano recordings. I can't yet tell if it's an issue with the tweeter or one of the mid range drivers. I have a spare tweeter and I'm hoping it's that but I'm thinking it's a driver or crossover issue.
I'd appreciate you letting me know what you found here. Thanks for your response and I'm glad to hear that your problem was resolved. I have been chasing this problem on my speakers for a while. I usually hear this twangy, buzzy, fuzziness that is very evident on the left loudspeaker during medium volume, middle of the keyboard playing but I have also picked this up with harp recordings. My Telarc Erroll Garner recording is particuarly bad and I have a Rachmaninoff Preludes CD on Naxos where the B Minor prelude (beginning) is BAD. I am afraid I might have a mid range driver issue and the drivers for these speakers (ScanSoeak) are expensive. I'm hoping the issue is the tweeter as I have a backup tweeter.
I am going to swap out cables and see if that makes a difference. Apparently there are notorious issues with piano recordings - piano, harp, and French horn are extremely hard to capture. A few years ago I actually had a email conversation with Keith Johnson, the lead engineer of Reference Recordings regarding a Nojima recording of the music of Ravel. He said that older digital piano recordings had peaking distorion issues and a strong DC bias which meant that with high resolution system, the harshness of the recording on piano transients would sound distorted. I have a number of even more recent recordings that sound bad (most of them in fact) in general but this specific issue goes beyond that.
It's almost like there's a pre-fuzz sound before notes are played and a tinnyness that drives me nuts. I'm not a vinyl - phile but I played a 45 RPM direct to disc Beethoven recording on this stereo and it sounded fantastic - none of the digital harshness from the CDs. I played the Rachmaninoff recording through my ipod into the pre-amp and still they sound awful. Thanks again for the update. Well, swapping the left with the right channel will certainly reveal if it's a recording issue.
If you'll continue to hear it in the same speaker having L and R swapper, it's definitely the speaker. Whether it's the mid-range or the tweeter depends on what frequencies they 'operate' on. Could be the low-end of the tweeter, could be the high-end of the mid-range, take a pillow, cover one driver then the other and it should be clearly audible which one is screwed up. Also, if you have an option to connect your PC directly to your receiver/amp or record some sound off of it and then play it back, try this thing: - it's a perfectly clear piano source, see where it starts/ends to buzz and you can lookup what notes are at what frequencies, compare with the crossover frequencies of your speaker(s) and there you go.
It's always a pain if something old breaks, especially if it's old and good. I hope for you that it's a tweeter and you can replace it. Hey I sat on this problem for a long while and basically didn't play the speakers much. However, I reached out to a local guy that fixes audio and here is what he recommended: 'If you can isolate the problem to one of the speakers, then try to determine which driver is making the noise.' - I did this, it was the left bottom woofer 'If you can pinpoint it to one of the two woofers, then lay the speaker down and remove that driver, rotate it 180 degrees, and re-install it. Loop and twist the wire harness so that there isn’t much slack when you replace the speaker in case the wires were vibrating against the frame.' I did this over the weekend and so far, it has (so far) fixed my problem.
I played the most offensive recording that revealed this problem, the Rachmaninoff Prelude in B Minor / Naxos and, there is no buzz. I asked him what could have caused this and he said this: 'The buzzing sound could have been from a wire vibrating against the frame or could have been something else vibrating.' So I would recommend that you do exactly what he suggested. I am curious if this might fix your problem. Thanks for your reply, but it's too late in my case.
After swapping two pairs of the 10.7 speakers, where one in each pair was faulty, I've got the 10.6 for fronts and the problem is gone. Because these don't have a separate mid-range driver. I'm 100% sure it wasn't any wire vibrating, though, I'm pretty sure I could differentiate between the sound of a different object vibrating and the speaker being screwed up. It was so clear that it's the mid-range driver that the volume of this distortion was also increasing relative to the pitch - at the crossover frequency you could clearly hear the distortion 'arrive' when these frequencies started. Anyway, I appreciate your help, but unfortunately it was a quite 'simple' problem in my case - faulty driver.
I'm happy with my 10.6s now, it's been over 1.5 years since I've had this issue and these 10.6s work flawlessly so I'm all good.
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